VSR & It's Clones - Upgrade Parts and How to
#101
Posted 07 April 2010 - 14:55
The last time I used this was back the begining of last year and was crionoing at 494 +/- 4with the hop optimised for .28s
This was litteraly a spring swap, so....
Results today show
459.2
457.1
454.3
455.3
456.5
Then it stopped being able to cock <_<
Something mechanical I believe :angry:
At least it gave 5 shots that were way lower than I was expecting but at least they were reasonably consistant.
If time permits I'll see if I can fix it and get the remaining test shots done too
#102
Posted 08 April 2010 - 11:04
#103
Posted 10 April 2010 - 11:45
I tested my X-ring last week and found the variation to be in region of 15, no specific figures as I didn't have time to write them down.
#104
Posted 27 April 2010 - 08:55
Sniper taped and painted my riffle but did want to paint the bolt to clog up the workings and it won't take
gun blue due to the materiel its made from? Looked at it, thought yep like the paint job but man that bolt is
brigth!!!
#105
Posted 27 April 2010 - 09:10
or cover the the hole in the "ejection port" with sniper tape or a rifle rag.
#106
Posted 27 April 2010 - 16:17
#107
Posted 28 April 2010 - 17:29
Can't find one anywhere..... I'd rather not plump down the cash for a zero trigger as its only the trigger sear i need (brand new laylax red piston in there...)
#108
Posted 30 April 2010 - 10:17
They can also tell you when they are getting them in as well.
You checked redwolf and wgc too?
#109
Posted 30 April 2010 - 12:18
combatsouth have them in stock, just got off them phone with them.
I official love you *Ak* ;)
Cheers
#110
Posted 03 May 2010 - 23:37
custom biro hop fitted myself
Laylax Trigger Sear
Laylax Piston Sear
Laylax Spring Guide Stopper
laylax 6.03 430 mm barrel
Unknown spring What would be required to get it up to near 500 fps relaibly (so I can get back into the sniper role as my AEG DMR has equal range atm) so it is not likey to go bang on the first go?. would you reccomend a full rebild piston and all or just a new spring
Cheers Will
#111
Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:01
KFPANDA, on 03 May 2010 - 23:37 , said:
custom biro hop fitted myself
Laylax Trigger Sear
Laylax Piston Sear
Laylax Spring Guide Stopper
laylax 6.03 430 mm barrel
Unknown spring What would be required to get it up to near 500 fps relaibly (so I can get back into the sniper role as my AEG DMR has equal range atm) so it is not likey to go bang on the first go?. would you reccomend a full rebild piston and all or just a new spring
Cheers Will
You haven't mentioned if you've got an upgraded spring guide. You'll need one of those without a doubt.
For 500fps, depending on how good your compression is you might be able to get away with an SP150 spring. Alternatively, buy an SP170 and clip coils off the spring until you fall below 500fps.
I highly recommend sourcing a Zero Trigger, or other alternative that utilises a 90-degree piston sear. With a higher FPS spring, you'll get a much smoother cocking motion.
Personally, I have a 6.01mm PDI inner barrel, a Zero Trigger + Piston using an X-ring, and a Firefly hard rubber. This gives me an average of 485fps (with a three FPS variance).
#112
Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:43
#113
Posted 04 May 2010 - 09:25
Looking for a bit of advice. I picked up a used G-Spec at the weekend and its only shooting @200. As far as i know its standard but i was looking to get it up to 350max as one of its uses will be for Marshall test kills on the site i work at. From what ive read a 110 spring is probably the max and everything else can stay standard but i was also looking at a TK Twist Barrel (assuming i can find one with the hens teeth they must make them out of) and a nine ball or firefly hop. On that basis is there any advice on what may be wrong and also my suggested parts list?
Cheers
Nat
B->
#114
Posted 04 May 2010 - 15:52
Either rubber is good but you may find the firefly a tad hard at such a low fps, I do all my sniping at sub 350 fps and I run a 9ball in mine, its a much more consistent rubber shot to shot.
For you to be getting a low fps reading I'd say compression issue, try stripping and re greasing the O ring, whipping the rubber to the barrel and making sure your not getting a leak at the nozzle end of the rubber.
You could also try fittng spacers behind the spring, IIRC 6mm long is the max you can fit behind a 150 spring and 11mm behind the standard spring, this will boost your power on the spring you already have.
Just to give you something to aim at, I got 372 fps out of the stock TM spring in my G-spec, but I run a 450mm barrel ;)
This post has been edited by vindicareassassin: 04 May 2010 - 15:53
#115
Posted 04 May 2010 - 17:19
#116
Posted 05 May 2010 - 21:54
Barrel spacers will increase your accuracy, being a G-spec you have the advantage that the outter will be the same diameter for the full length, so I'd suggest going the 1 full length spacer made out of paper or foam sheet rolled round the barrel until it fills the void in the outer, this will also make it a bit quieter to as it fills the hollow stopping sound resonating.
And for ultimate quietness.... make sure the airbrake extends into the cylinder head nozzle by a full 10mm, I say this as if the cylinder head has been ported the airbrake will be alot less effective, so will need extending :)
#117
Posted 06 May 2010 - 10:18
On the barrel spacer note i have load of foam pipe lagging im hoping will do the job and some expanding foam for the stock on the way. Ive also got a ton of other foam from PC and Hard drive boxes that have been sitting on the work shelves for years waiting for an opportunity to be usedhttp://www.ukairsoftzone.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif
Cheers
Nat
#118
Posted 06 May 2010 - 16:50
If you scan through my guide, link is in my sig, there is a couple of things that will help you out even though its DMR AEG based, stuff like the barrel polishing and hop rubber whipping, plus some extreme stuff you can incorporate if you fancy taking it that far ;)
Re the pin in your cylinder head, You can drill it, but I punched mine in using a pin punch and hammer.
You have to be carful doing it this way as it can come out the otherside into the nozzle, and thats bad ;)
If your compression test is as you say then I'd guess the O ring is shafted, or just dry, try soaking it in power steering fluid for 24hrs, then give it a smear of grease, and see how you go.
Whilest you have the head off its worth giving a bit of a port out to aid air flow, just stick it in a high speed drill and round the edges with some emery cloth, but don't go to mad or like I mentioned above the airbrake will have less effect.
This post has been edited by vindicareassassin: 06 May 2010 - 16:51
#119
Posted 11 May 2010 - 20:25
#120
Posted 11 May 2010 - 20:52

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