United Kingdom Airsoft Zone: VSR & It's Clones - Upgrade Parts and How to - United Kingdom Airsoft Zone

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VSR & It's Clones - Upgrade Parts and How to

#101 User is offline   vindicareassassin 

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 14:55

Did a test with my 150 spring in.

The last time I used this was back the begining of last year and was crionoing at 494 +/- 4with the hop optimised for .28s

This was litteraly a spring swap, so....

Results today show

459.2
457.1
454.3
455.3
456.5

Then it stopped being able to cock <_<

Something mechanical I believe :angry:

At least it gave 5 shots that were way lower than I was expecting but at least they were reasonably consistant.

If time permits I'll see if I can fix it and get the remaining test shots done too

#102 User is offline   Reign-Mack 

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Posted 08 April 2010 - 11:04

I had a cocking issue last year it was down to a double feed in the end so not as bad as I thought.

#103 User is offline   Walach 

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Posted 10 April 2010 - 11:45

I tend to find cocking issues are the trigger sear & piston sear needing a bit of loving, i.e, just taking out and putting back in - it is the rifle equivilant of fixing PCs by turning them off and on again.

I tested my X-ring last week and found the variation to be in region of 15, no specific figures as I didn't have time to write them down.



#104 User is offline   Stone Hombre 

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Posted 27 April 2010 - 08:55

Question folks... how do you hide the bright silver bolt on your VSR's?

Sniper taped and painted my riffle but did want to paint the bolt to clog up the workings and it won't take
gun blue due to the materiel its made from? Looked at it, thought yep like the paint job but man that bolt is
brigth!!!

#105 User is offline   *Ak* 

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Posted 27 April 2010 - 09:10

Either buy a teflon cylinder,
or cover the the hole in the "ejection port" with sniper tape or a rifle rag.

#106 User is offline   vindicareassassin 

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Posted 27 April 2010 - 16:17

What AK said.... I painted mine the first time I painted the weapon, the paint never lasted the full day of the first skirmish <_<

#107 User is offline   Jam 

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Posted 28 April 2010 - 17:29

Heres a question, anyone know where i can get a replacement trigger sear for my VSR ?

Can't find one anywhere..... I'd rather not plump down the cash for a zero trigger as its only the trigger sear i need (brand new laylax red piston in there...)

#108 User is offline   *Ak* 

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Posted 30 April 2010 - 10:17

Its worth rining places like fire-support and combat south as their websites don't always follow what they actually have in stock.
They can also tell you when they are getting them in as well.

You checked redwolf and wgc too?

#109 User is offline   Jam 

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Posted 30 April 2010 - 12:18

w00t !

combatsouth have them in stock, just got off them phone with them.

I official love you *Ak* ;)

Cheers

#110 User is offline   KFPANDA 

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Posted 03 May 2010 - 23:37

Ive owned a g-spec for 2 years now received in a trade once firing at 400ish its now firing at 370 after constant use by the whole family in games. from what I know It has these componets inside.
custom biro hop fitted myself
Laylax Trigger Sear
Laylax Piston Sear
Laylax Spring Guide Stopper
laylax 6.03 430 mm barrel
Unknown spring What would be required to get it up to near 500 fps relaibly (so I can get back into the sniper role as my AEG DMR has equal range atm) so it is not likey to go bang on the first go?. would you reccomend a full rebild piston and all or just a new spring
Cheers Will

#111 User is offline   Bodgeups 

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:01

View PostKFPANDA, on 03 May 2010 - 23:37 , said:

Ive owned a g-spec for 2 years now received in a trade once firing at 400ish its now firing at 370 after constant use by the whole family in games. from what I know It has these componets inside.
custom biro hop fitted myself
Laylax Trigger Sear
Laylax Piston Sear
Laylax Spring Guide Stopper
laylax 6.03 430 mm barrel
Unknown spring What would be required to get it up to near 500 fps relaibly (so I can get back into the sniper role as my AEG DMR has equal range atm) so it is not likey to go bang on the first go?. would you reccomend a full rebild piston and all or just a new spring
Cheers Will


You haven't mentioned if you've got an upgraded spring guide. You'll need one of those without a doubt.

For 500fps, depending on how good your compression is you might be able to get away with an SP150 spring. Alternatively, buy an SP170 and clip coils off the spring until you fall below 500fps.

I highly recommend sourcing a Zero Trigger, or other alternative that utilises a 90-degree piston sear. With a higher FPS spring, you'll get a much smoother cocking motion.

Personally, I have a 6.01mm PDI inner barrel, a Zero Trigger + Piston using an X-ring, and a Firefly hard rubber. This gives me an average of 485fps (with a three FPS variance).

#112 User is offline   KFPANDA 

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 01:43

Cheers I dont think it does have an upgraded spring guide anyhew there goes my next pay check :)

#113 User is offline   BL Zeebub 

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 09:25

Mornin All,

Looking for a bit of advice. I picked up a used G-Spec at the weekend and its only shooting @200. As far as i know its standard but i was looking to get it up to 350max as one of its uses will be for Marshall test kills on the site i work at. From what ive read a 110 spring is probably the max and everything else can stay standard but i was also looking at a TK Twist Barrel (assuming i can find one with the hens teeth they must make them out of) and a nine ball or firefly hop. On that basis is there any advice on what may be wrong and also my suggested parts list?

Cheers

Nat
B->

#114 User is offline   vindicareassassin 

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 15:52

I'd stick with an ordinary tight bore as there is no conclusive proof that the TK barrel is as shit hot as its supposed to be, either a 6.05 or 6.08 will give you good groupings.

Either rubber is good but you may find the firefly a tad hard at such a low fps, I do all my sniping at sub 350 fps and I run a 9ball in mine, its a much more consistent rubber shot to shot.

For you to be getting a low fps reading I'd say compression issue, try stripping and re greasing the O ring, whipping the rubber to the barrel and making sure your not getting a leak at the nozzle end of the rubber.

You could also try fittng spacers behind the spring, IIRC 6mm long is the max you can fit behind a 150 spring and 11mm behind the standard spring, this will boost your power on the spring you already have.

Just to give you something to aim at, I got 372 fps out of the stock TM spring in my G-spec, but I run a 450mm barrel ;)

This post has been edited by vindicareassassin: 04 May 2010 - 15:53


#115 User is offline   BL Zeebub 

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 17:19

Cheers for the advice fine sir, ive got a mate with a stock cylinder assembly and spring to try at the weekend but ill be looking at your pointers in the meantime. As for longer barrels, does the stock silencer work well or will running a longer barrel into it increase the noise? Also im assuming barrel spacers (bought or homemade) are a good addition?

#116 User is offline   vindicareassassin 

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Posted 05 May 2010 - 21:54

If you run a 450mm barrel into the silencer it will finish about 30mm from the end so noise will increase a touch, but to be honest unless you plan to run it in the +450 fps bracket a 303mm barrel will be fine, not to mention a lot more quiet ;)

Barrel spacers will increase your accuracy, being a G-spec you have the advantage that the outter will be the same diameter for the full length, so I'd suggest going the 1 full length spacer made out of paper or foam sheet rolled round the barrel until it fills the void in the outer, this will also make it a bit quieter to as it fills the hollow stopping sound resonating.

And for ultimate quietness.... make sure the airbrake extends into the cylinder head nozzle by a full 10mm, I say this as if the cylinder head has been ported the airbrake will be alot less effective, so will need extending :)

#117 User is offline   BL Zeebub 

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 10:18

Once again thanks for the info. I started looking at the problem last night and discovered a few things. Firstly the original owner has cross-threaded the outer barrel onto the reciever, not a complete disaster as with a lot of solicone sparay and working the thread i finally got it off. About 2/3 of the thread on the outer barrel is damaged but luckily not so badly that it wont go back on properly once cleaned up a bit. On the note of the thread are there any tips to helping with this - i did consider a bit of copaslip if i need to dismantle it again but im not so sure this will help. Once id got that off i looked at the cylinder and followed a test id read about cocking and putting a finger over the nozzle and then firing. Apparently the pistion should stop short and then when you remove your finger it should finish its travel.... or not in this case as it does the full travel with my finger over the nozzle. That, i believe, suggests an air leak in the cylinder? Im sorting a vice to help drill out the pin and then ill look inside. As a further test i held the barrel & hop onto the end of the cylinder without the outer barrel and still got @200fps.

On the barrel spacer note i have load of foam pipe lagging im hoping will do the job and some expanding foam for the stock on the way. Ive also got a ton of other foam from PC and Hard drive boxes that have been sitting on the work shelves for years waiting for an opportunity to be usedhttp://www.ukairsoftzone.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif

Cheers

Nat

#118 User is offline   vindicareassassin 

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 16:50

If you have a crossed thread on the reciever but the cylinder/head still has its pin in, I'd give the hop unit and rubber a good going over too, as it sounds like the previous owner had willing but lacked know how <_<

If you scan through my guide, link is in my sig, there is a couple of things that will help you out even though its DMR AEG based, stuff like the barrel polishing and hop rubber whipping, plus some extreme stuff you can incorporate if you fancy taking it that far ;)


Re the pin in your cylinder head, You can drill it, but I punched mine in using a pin punch and hammer.

You have to be carful doing it this way as it can come out the otherside into the nozzle, and thats bad ;)

If your compression test is as you say then I'd guess the O ring is shafted, or just dry, try soaking it in power steering fluid for 24hrs, then give it a smear of grease, and see how you go.

Whilest you have the head off its worth giving a bit of a port out to aid air flow, just stick it in a high speed drill and round the edges with some emery cloth, but don't go to mad or like I mentioned above the airbrake will have less effect.

This post has been edited by vindicareassassin: 06 May 2010 - 16:51


#119 User is offline   El Toro loco 

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 20:25

View PostBodgeups, on 16 December 2009 - 09:20 , said:

I've edited the topic name, as the same upgrade parts for the VSR series will fit the Jing Gong clones.

Does this include Mags as well? (sorry if its a really dumb question)

#120 User is offline   KFPANDA 

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 20:52

in short yep Ive used VSR and JG mags in either make of gun

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