[Prophet]

After having a quick chrono check yesterday it would seem my VSR (LE No.4) is loosing compression for some reason, i noticed the range was suffering . . .

I am using a SP110 spring which, when i installed it was kicking out 420-430. However this has dropped to 320. With a stock TM VSR spring it does about 220.

- The piston o-ring looks fine
- The cylinder head has a o-ring which as far as i can tell is fine

Could something have changed in the hop ? In my limited experience with VSR's air loss is generally down to a bad fitting between nozzle/hop. Its probably worth mentioning that is still has a stock TM hop rubber in.

Im going to order a new spring and (nineball) hop rubber now anyway. Just wondering if there is something simple i have overlooked.

cheers

[Shaggy]

The only obvious things to try (assuming you haben't already) is ptfe tape around the cylinder head thread, and dental flossing the hop (in the DMR guide). I actually flossed mine then wrapped a few layers of ptfe around just for sh*ts and giggles :)

Otherwise it could be just a dirty barrel.

[vindicareassassin]

One thing I'd do is to whip the nozzle end aswell.

I used the same method as in my DMR guide but used high strength cotton instead, I bought it in woolworths so you might have to look elsewhere ;) , fitted a spacer into the rubber at the nozzle end to stop it collapsing and when it was done set it with Mitre Bond (a 2 pack super fast setting builders super glue available at Travis Perkins and the like.)

This forms a hard anti blowby ring to guarentee a nice tight seal at the nozzle :D

I'm sure that much of a drop wont be a dirty barrel but it wont hurt it to give it a good clean :P

As I've mentioned elsewhere you can breath a bit of life into an old O ring by soaking it in power steering fluid over night, but this is by no means a cure all ;)

[Prophet]

Thanks for the reply chaps (some good info the vindicare)

PTFE taped the rubber to the barrel and shes back up 430

NB - I always keep my barrels gleaming :P

[Shaggy]

I actually lost about 50fps due to a dirtyish barrel a while back :blink:

[vindicareassassin]

Shaggy, on 25 May 2010 - 11:07 , said:

I actually lost about 50fps due to a dirtyish barrel a while back :blink:

Take yourself off for a good spanking for your poor drills :nono:

A good contientious airsoft sniper cleans his barrel with a dry swab after every event :P

[Shaggy]

:lol: it's clean now sir!

To be fair my last event was in october (and it got a bloody good clean afterwards :P ), it probably got grotty through chronoing/tinkering/paper shooting. My return from injury skirmish isn't until July :lame:

Poor excuse but there it is :D

[Regulus]

Shaggy, on 24 May 2010 - 11:09 , said:

The only obvious things to try (assuming you haben't already) is ptfe tape around the cylinder head thread, and dental flossing the hop (in the DMR guide). I actually flossed mine then wrapped a few layers of ptfe around just for sh*ts and giggles :)

Otherwise it could be just a dirty barrel.

i was going to try this,

i have an idea what it is your talking about but can clarify for a slight nooby what part to tape up,

thanks

[Shaggy]

The cylinder head is pretty self-explanatory, just unscrew the cylinder head, wrap a few layers around it and screw it back in - just make sure that you apply the tape in the right direction so that when you screw the head back on the tape doesn't undo itself.

The inner barrel; the dental floss is described in VA's DMR guide, and the PTFE tape goes in the same place at the barrel end of the bucking (I flossed and then put PTFE tape on top for fun B) ).

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Again, just wrap a few layers around, and try to avoid taping over the nub cut in the top of the chamber (if that makes sense :blink: )

Hope that helps.

This post has been edited by Shaggy: 26 May 2010 - 18:02

[Regulus]

Shaggy, on 26 May 2010 - 16:57 , said:

The cylinder head is pretty self-explanatory, just unscrew the cylinder head, wrap a few layers around it and screw it back in - just make sure that you apply the tape in the right direction so that when you screw the head back on the tape doesn't undo itself.

The inner barrel; the dental floss is described in VA's DMR guide, and the PTFE tape goes in the same place at the barrel end of the bucking (I flossed and then put PTFE tape on top for fun B) ).

DSCF0660.JPG
DSCF0661.JPG

Again, just wrap a few layers around, and try to avoid taping over the nub cut in the top of the chamber (if that makes sense :blink: )

Hope that helps.

yea this is great, thanks

so i take it this screws out of the hop?
then the tape helps to seal the thread?

thanks again

[Shaggy]

The cylinder head screws into the cylinder.

The inner barrel and bucking are clamped between the two halves of the hop up chamber.